All posts by Marc d'Entremont

Chef, freelance travel and food writer, chef/educator. Host of: www.travel-with-pen-and-palate-argentina.com Feature Writer for Luxe Beat Mahazine, Original World Insights, International Travel and Philadelphia Fine Dining Examiner for Examiner.com member: American Culinary Federation and the International Food, Wine & Travel Writers Association (on Board of Directors)

In the Age of Puddings: Historic English and America Cookery

In the Tudor kitchen at Hampton Court Palace, London, UK
In the Tudor kitchen at Hampton Court Palace, London, UK

Robert Fitch answered my question, “porridge was the staff of life” for the common person until the 18th century. No wonder working the palace was a coveted job – even for a spit turner.

The Hampton Court Palace kitchen cooked two meals for approximately 600 people daily consuming in one 16th century year 1,240 oxen, 8,200 sheep, 2,330 deer, 760 calves, 1,870 pigs and 53 wild boar.

When porridge was the staff of life: cookery at Hampton Court Palace

A pudding steaming in the hearth at the Thomas Massey House (c.1696) Broomall, PA
A pudding steaming in the hearth at the Thomas Massey House (c.1696) Broomall, PA

Puddings were a major component of the English and American table during these centuries and often served as the foundation of a one dish meal in this age of cooking on an open wood fired hearth.

Clarissa Dillon on the great age of English puddings

Clarissa Dillon, one of the foremost authorities on 16th-18th century English and colonial American cooking, tackles the often confusing interpretations of our shared culinary past.

Dr. Clarissa Dillon
Dr. Clarissa Dillon

I believe both Fergus and Clarissa would agree that a 17th/18th century middle class diet was healthy only if the diner was physically very active, but it’s tasty. London’s Chef Fergus Henderson and Philadelphia’s Dr. Clarissa Dillon have never met yet share a no-nonsense and unsentimental approach towards the diet of their 17th and 18th century Anglo ancestors.

Eighteenth century appetizers from two culinary historians

Marrow bones at St. John Bar & Restaurant, London, UK
Marrow bones at St. John Bar & Restaurant, London, UK

When St. John Bar & Restaurant at 26 St. John Street, London, was a smokehouse in the 18th century, located a couple blocks from the centuries old Smithfield Market, Hampton Court Palace had a chocolate kitchen catering exclusively to the large royal household.

Chocolate was a London fad when oysters were fast food

King's dining room, 18th century, Hampton Court Palace, London, UK
King’s dining room, 18th century, Hampton Court Palace, London, UK

 

You can read all my articles at:

Luxe Beat Magazine

Original World Travel

Culinary Travel Examiner

 International Dining Examiner

International Travel Examiner

Philadelphia Fine Dining Examiner

Food & Recipes Examiner

Suite101

 

St. John Bar & Restaurant, London, UK
St. John Bar & Restaurant, London, UK
Beach in Ouranoupolis, Athos, Greece

Driving Halkidiki

harbor, Neos Marmaras, Sithonia, Greece
harbor, Neos Marmaras, Sithonia, Greece

Sitting at a beach side café in Possidi on the Halkidiki peninsula of Kassandra, this North American was struck by an unfamiliar scene. People were reading.

Driving Kassandra unplugged and tuned into Greece

Nea Fokea:14th Century Byzantine tower and church
Nea Fokea:14th Century Byzantine tower and church

Fingers of land jutting into the Aegean, Kassandra, Sithonia and sacred Athos have, like all of Macedonia, been at the center of turbulent times since the 4th century B.C.E. In the 21st century the only turbulence seemed to be the long lines of cars every summer weekend that bring holiday seekers from Thessaloniki and Eastern Europe.

water sports in Sithonia
water sports in Sithonia

Family owned since it opened in 1989, the rooms surround an opulent pool that is the focal point of the Flegra Palace Hotel including the Soleil Bar with its dramatic glass floor jutting over the water.

Soleil Bar at the Flegra Palace Hotel
Soleil Bar at the Flegra Palace Hotel

Flegra Palace Hotel plans new venture in Pefkohori, Greece

Fortunately mere mortals can dine at Ambrosia, the open-air dining room at the Flegra Palace Hotel in the Halkidiki seaside resort town of Pefkohori, Greece.

Ambrosia, Flegra Palace Hotel
Ambrosia, Flegra Palace Hotel

Chef Aphrodite Balanou makes Ambrosia in Pefkohori, Greece

You can read all my articles at:

Luxe Beat Magazine

Original World Travel

Culinary Travel Examiner

 International Dining Examiner

International Travel Examiner

Philadelphia Fine Dining Examiner

Food & Recipes Examiner

Suite101

Beach in Ouranoupolis, Athos, Greece
Beach in Ouranoupolis, Athos, Greece

Dim sum and cigars: a New York experience

dim sum at 88 Palace
dim sum at 88 Palace
88 Palace
88 Palace

At a recent press lunch for journalists of the International Food, Wine & Travel Writers Association and New Jersey Press Association, Yang Chao Lu, owner of 88 Palace,  presented a veritable banquet of dim sum dishes over several hours.

Gail Gerson-Whitte & 88 Palace manager Shi Fan Lu
Gail Gerson-Whitte & 88 Palace manager Shi Fan Lu

But 88 Palace is more than a restaurant. It’s a microcosm of any Chinatown street, fun to explore and taste.  Read more at…

88 Palace serves palatial dim sum

inside The Ride
inside The Ride
The Ride
The Ride

Sitting stadium style looking out an entire glass walled side and half the ceiling of the specially outfitted bus, The Ride talks, in a deep resonating voice, not just to its customers but to people on the street as well.

The Ride, Chrysler Building ornament
The Ride, Chrysler Building ornament

The Ride deftly weaves Manhattan to give the audience a sense of the city’s energy and comedy.  Read more at…

Celebrating Manhattan on The Ride

Mike's Deli, David Greco
Mike’s Deli, David Greco
dried tomatoes at Arthur Avenue Market
dried tomatoes at Arthur Avenue Market

“I’m the mozzarella man,” says David Greco,  and there’s a cigar man, cannoli women,  a microbrewer and six other purveyors at the venerable Arthur Avenue Market in the Bronx.

Mario's owner chef Joseph Migliuccis
Mario’s owner chef Joseph Migliuccis

New York still has neighborhoods such as Belmont in the Bronx and streets like Arthur Avenue that are pockets of an almost forgotten urban reality.  Read more at…

The mozzarella man is in the Bronx

…and while you’re at it, have a cigar.

You can read all my articles at:

Luxe Beat Magazine

Original World Travel

Culinary Travel Examiner

 International Dining Examiner

International Travel Examiner

Philadelphia Fine Dining Examiner

Food & Recipes Examiner

Suite101

looking over Thames River & the river walk from Hotel Rafayel, Battersea towards Chelsea.

Hotel Rafayel: new London on the Thames

Banyan on the Thames restaurant, Hotel Rafayel, London
Banyan on the Thames restaurant, Hotel Rafayel, London

The Hotel Rafayel is part of the remarkable 21st century transformation of the Docklands, the East End and South London from post industrial wasteland into the vibrant, upscale, multi-ethnic residential and commercial city London’s east side of the Thames  has become.

Lobby of the Rafayel on the Left Bank, Falcon Wharf, London, UK
Lobby of the Rafayel on the Left Bank, Falcon Wharf, London, UK

Hotel Rafayel on the Left Bank has garnered praise for its attention to environmental details. From components for the actual building’s construction to its water catchment system, its eco-conscisousness only adds to its 21st century 5-Star charm.

The Hotel Rafayel on the Left Bank: sustainable luxury on the Thames

Banyan on the Thames restaurant, Hotel Rafayel, London, UK
Banyan on the Thames restaurant, Hotel Rafayel, London, UK

Rapid urban change has remodeled the river scape along the Thames recreating the bustle of a modern port of international commerce. Except now the product is more than likely to be transported by computer or jet than freighter.

The ArcelorMittal Orbit, Queen Elizabeth Olympic Park Olympic Park, London, UK (scheduled to open 04/2014 )
The ArcelorMittal Orbit, Queen Elizabeth Olympic Park Olympic Park, London, UK (scheduled to open 04/2014 )

With a city as cosmopolitan as London, there could only be more articles appearing shortly on Travel with Pen and Palate.

London from the observation deck of the ArcelorMittal Orbit, London, UK
London from the observation deck of the ArcelorMittal Orbit, London, UK

The Tate Modern Gallery is housed in a converted art deco power plant within walking distance along the Thames River walk  just up from the Globe Theater. The clean lines of the sprawling space gives justice to both the subjects and size of many great and imaginative works.  A voiceless short documentary from the Tate is an urban ballet.

You can read all my articles at:

Luxe Beat Magazine

Original World Travel

Culinary Travel Examiner

 International Dining Examiner

International Travel Examiner

Philadelphia Fine Dining Examiner

Food & Recipes Examiner

Suite101

Freak Alley, Boise, Idaho

Boise, Idaho, Top Ten

Most state capitals were chosen for political reasons, frequently condemning them to regions of inconsequential and dubious economic value other than politics.
The candy bra at The Chocolate Bar, 805 W. Bannock, Boise, ID
The candy bra at The Chocolate Bar, 805 W. Bannock, Boise, ID
But in Boise, Idaho, an entrepreneurial spirit is resulting in unique pockets of cultural activity.

Boise, Idaho, is not your average state capital

 

Freak Alley
Freak Alley

Brewers Nuts at City Peanut Shop
Brewers Nuts at City Peanut Shop

cafes in downtown
cafes in downtown

Lava Lake Lamb
Lava Lake Lamb

Bedroom in the rooming house: Basque Cultural Center
Bedroom in the rooming house: Basque Cultural Center
Come visit my Boise top ten.

Boise, Idaho, is not your average state capital

The 25-mile Greenbelt along the Boise River in the Idaho capital is a haven for recreation, sustainable river ecology and a pollution free bike and pedestrian path connecting downtown with Boise State University as well as numerous hotels and cafes. This video highlights a spillway popular with surfers and kayakers. Video credit: Marc d’Entremont (travel with pen and palate)

You can read all my articles at:

Luxe Beat Magazine

Original World Travel

Culinary Travel Examiner

 International Dining Examiner

International Travel Examiner

Philadelphia Fine Dining Examiner

Food & Recipes Examiner

Suite101

The Egyptian Theater
The Egyptian Theater
Spike Coggins, primitive musician, at Sun Valley Harvest Festival

Idaho is more than the land of potatoes

Dinner at Sawtooth Winery, Nampa, ID – Zee Catering
Dinner at Sawtooth Winery, Nampa, ID – Zee Catering

The potato may still reign as Idaho’s number one production crop but in the agriculture section of the Twin Falls Sunday Times-News is a long list of local farmers selling everything from grass fed Tibetan yak to heirloom Anasazi® beans.

Idaho agriculture grows beyond the potato

Salad of baby vegetables & foraged greens – Zee Catering at Sawtooth Winery
Salad of baby vegetables & foraged greens – Zee Catering at Sawtooth Winery

Sun Valley and adjacent Ketchum are by far Idaho’s wealthiest communities, yet that does not mean the offerings at the Sun Valley Harvest Festival are esoteric. From the many exhibitors this journalist learned that quinoa is a complete protein. Salting a sauté pan before frying vegetables prevents sticking. Hemp seeds are high in fiber, low in carbs and packed with iron.

Sun Valley Harvest Festival was a cornucopia of food surprises

Kelley of Manitoba Harvest's Hemp Hearts – raw shelled hemp seeds
Kelley of Manitoba Harvest’s Hemp Hearts – raw shelled hemp seeds

Out in the cooking tents a number of chefs demonstrated a range of foods. Award winning vegetarian chefs to A-list celebrities Tal Ronnen and Scot Jones of West Hollywood’s Crossroads restaurant presented a twist on traditional caponata as an entrée served on black quinoa and toasted buckwheat.

For the complete recipe…

Chef Ronnen and Jones eggplant caponata over buckwheat and black quinoa

Chef Ronnen and Jones eggplant caponata over buckwheat and black quinoa
Chef Ronnen and Jones eggplant caponata over buckwheat and black quinoa

Even unique music was featured on the last day. Spike Coggins, primitive musician, enthralled guests with unique and original compositions accompanied by the banjo, harmonica and percussion instruments ranging from chains, spurs and metal cleated boots tapping out the rhythm on old railroad spikes.

Spike Coggins, primitive musician
Spike Coggins, primitive musician

You can read all my articles at:

Luxe Beat Magazine

Original World Travel

Culinary Travel Examiner

 International Dining Examiner

International Travel Examiner

Philadelphia Fine Dining Examiner

Food & Recipes Examiner

Suite101

An Idaho harvest moon
An Idaho harvest moon
photo courtesy of the Hotel Nikopolis, Thessaloniki, Greece

The Hotel Nikopolis and Da Vinci provides luxury on the Spice Route

The clear blue water in the immense Hotel Nikopolis pool mirrors the crystal sea of Thessaloniki’s vast harbor.

Hotel Nikopolis, Thessaloniki, Greece
Hotel Nikopolis, Thessaloniki, Greece

The strikingly modern Hotel Nikopolis, built in 1999, is reminiscent in its clean lines of the marble and limestone structures of Greek antiquity.

photo courtesy of the Hotel Nikopolis, Thessaloniki, Greece
photo courtesy of the Hotel Nikopolis, Thessaloniki, Greece

Chef Stefanos Stamidis commands the hotel’s handsome Da Vinci dining room. Its Italian name is no conceit.

Veal ribs were glazed in deep, rich balsamic vinegar on a bed of baby carrots
Veal ribs were glazed in deep, rich balsamic vinegar on a bed of baby carrots

Historically located at the crossroads of empires, the city has sat at the intersection of the fabled spice route connecting the ancient worlds of the Mediterranean, Near East and the Orient.

The Hotel Nikopolis and Da Vinci: luxury on the Spice Route

in Luxe Beat Magazine, the new luxury lifestyle publication

Thessaloniki: modern, Roman, Byzantine & Ottoman
Thessaloniki: modern, Roman, Byzantine & Ottoman

You can read all my articles at:

Luxe Beat Magazine

Original World Travel

Culinary Travel Examiner

 International Dining Examiner

International Travel Examiner

Philadelphia Fine Dining Examiner

Food & Recipes Examiner

Suite101

Thessaloniki, Greece

In the heart of Alexander’s empire

Founded in 315 B.C.E. by King Cassander of Macedon, he wisely named the city after his wife, Thessalonike, sister to Alexander the Great. Thessaloniki, as a major port city with nearly 2,500 years of history has been at the crossroads of empires starting with Alexander the Great, followed by Rome, Byzantium and the Ottomans.

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For a city bulging with a young educated population – 15% are university students.

Thessaloniki is always pregnant with culture

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Located at the intersection of the fabled spice route between Asia and Europe has had a profound effect on both the culture and cuisine of Thessaloniki. And its young population has made it a city of cafes.

Oval café creates friendships in Thessaloniki

Fava with squid and raisins from Thessaloniki’s Oval café
Fava with squid and raisins from Thessaloniki’s Oval café

Fava beans with squid and raisins is a favorite among Oval cafe patrons and reflects a reality that the ingredients for Greek cuisine remain easily sourced from their home provinces. Follow my step-by-step recipe with photos and recreate this delicious dish.

Fava with squid and raisins

The Oval cafe
The Oval cafe

You can read all my articles on Examiner.com at:

Culinary Travel Examiner

 International Dining Examiner

International Travel Examiner

Philadelphia Fine Dining Examiner

and

 Food & Recipes Examiner

A 15th century Ottoman public bath house
A 15th century Ottoman public bath house

 

Three generations, Waikea Uka Ranch, Hawaii

A 19th century princess revives Hawai’i agriculture

Not unlike the deep respect for nature ingrained in Native American cultures, Hawaiians saw themselves as simply caretakers. ‘He ali’I no ka ‘aina, he hauva wale he kanaka’ – the land is chief; the human is but a servant.

Princess Bernice Pauahi Bishop (1831-1884) (right) & Charles Bishop (1822 - 1915) (left)
Princess Bernice Pauahi Bishop (1831-1884) (right) & Charles Bishop (1822 – 1915) (left)

The Kamehameha Schools have committed their vast resources to maintaining this statement as a 21st century reality.

The Kamehameha Schools revive the Hawaiian ahupua’a system

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High above what passes for tourist glitz on the Kona coast of the island of Hawai’i, the town of Hohualoa sits in early 20th century calm.

Overlooking the Kona coast
Overlooking the Kona coast

Holuakoa Gardens and Café is set within lush gardens complete with a meandering koi pond, yet their story of is more than a small café morphing into a successful restaurant; it’s an integral component in the revival of the Hawaiian ahupua’a system.

Holuakoa Gardens and Café personifies Hawaiian respect for the ‘aina

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You can read all my articles on Examiner.com at:

Culinary Travel Examiner

 International Dining Examiner

International Travel Examiner

Philadelphia Fine Dining Examiner

and

 Food & Recipes Examiner

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Original World Travel: A tour company that actually pays authors

Original World Insights has published another article by Marc d’Entremont

Forest Retreat Laos & author
Forest Retreat Laos & author

Thailand, Lao & Vietnam: Restaurants on a Mission in Southeast Asia.

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OWI is a publication by Original World Tours “providing discriminating travelers with “Hand Crafted Journeys to Traditional Cultures since 1997 – extraordinary journeys, news and notes of interest to serious cultural adventurers, and unique personal journals from Original World clients on the road in India, Asia, Africa, Middle East, and Eastern Europe.”

KOTO, Hanoi
KOTO, Hanoi

Restaurants can do more than just make fine food.

north Laos
north Laos

 They can help make fine lives.

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Marc d’Entremont is a contributing author for Original World Insights