Not unlike the deep respect for nature ingrained in Native American cultures, Hawaiians saw themselves as simply caretakers. ‘He ali’I no ka ‘aina, he hauva wale he kanaka’ – the land is chief; the human is but a servant.
High above what passes for tourist glitz on the Kona coast of the island of Hawai’i, the town of Hohualoa sits in early 20th century calm.
Overlooking the Kona coast
Holuakoa Gardens and Café is set within lush gardens complete with a meandering koi pond, yet their story of is more than a small café morphing into a successful restaurant; it’s an integral component in the revival of the Hawaiian ahupua’a system.
Although crab, mushrooms, mango and pineapple all have tropical associations….
the abundance of Hawaii, at Sam Choy Kai Lanai, Kona, Hi
only crabs and mushrooms are native to Hawaii.
Hamakua Mushrooms, Laupahoehoe, Hi
Pineapple and mangoes, ubiquitous symbols of tropical islands, are 19th century immigrants to Hawaii.
mangoes
During the past 200 years Hawaii has become an archipelago of diverse cultural influences. All transitions create controversy, but, fortunately, they rarely involve food.
In my recipe, classic crab cakes, made with wild caught Maryland blue crab, are grilled over hardwood charcoal for an island flavor.
With the active encouragement of the Hawaii Regional Cuisine movement and the considerable resources of the Kamehameha School agricultural land use initiative, the future for serious small farmers has rarely been brighter in the islands. With over 300 independent farms growing Kona Coffee and several dozen growing cocoa beans, the future for these Hawaii agricultural products is robust.
cocoa pods at Original Hawaiian Chocolate, Kona, Hi
The Kona Coffee Belt, panoramic Hawaii Route 180, hugs the Kona coast. Several dozen farms, including UCC-Hawaii Kona Coffee Estate and Original Hawaiian Chocolate offer tours and tastings. It’s no surprise that coffee and chocolate pair well together, but their Hawaiian story is just as interesting.
“I’m not a French chef,” says Marseilles born George Mavrothalassitis, “I’m a Frenchman who’s a chef.”
Executive Chef George Mavrothalassitis
This is not self modesty but a succinct definition of what has made his Honolulu venue, Chef Mavro, one of only two Mobil Five Diamond restaurants in the state of Hawaii.
Keahole lobster with kurobuta pork belly
As a founding chef of the Hawaii Regional Cuisine movement, it is not a stretch for chef Mavrothalassitis to create menus influenced by Hawaii’s pan Asian products and his own eclectic imagination.
Shirakabe Gura-Sho Chiku Bai sparkling sake
Wine as an essential flavor experience is a hallmark of Chef Mavro. Read more about this remarkable Honolulu restaurant …..
Ikaika Bishop beams with pride as he tells of his commitment to the sustainable revival of Hawaiian agricultural. He has a right to be proud as he shows off his taro fields, the heart of Keanuenue Farms and Hawaii’s agricultural future.
Keanuenue Farms
The vast resources of Princess Bernice’s legacy are focused on reviving sustainable Hawaiian agriculture, and the answers may be in taro, continued …
Poke at Hilton Hawaiian Village opening reception. Poke is raw marinated fish with herbs.
pool at The Modern hotel Waikiki dessert reception
Pool at The Modern Hotel, Waikiki, next door to the Hilton. The Modern sponsored a dessert reception.
Maui Surfing goat cheese & Ho Farm Tomato Quiche at breakfast at the Moana Surfrider hotel (oldest in Waikiki)
Celebrating its 112 year of operation, the historic Moana Surfrider hotel sponsored a breakfast including Maui Surfing goat cheese & Ho Farm Tomato Quiche.
fine art at the Honolulu Museum of Art and
Fine art at the Honolulu Museum of Art with imaginative groupings and vibrant wall colors
mahi-mahi udon salad at lunch at the Honolulu Museum of Art Cafe
Equally fine at the Honolulu Museum of Art was the menu at the cafe. Pictured above is the mahi-mahi udon salad
pool with view of Diamond Head at Shangri La the Islamic art filled home of the late Doris Duke
Pool with view of Diamond Head at Shangri La the Islamic art filled home of the late Doris Duke
Hula and music from ancient to new social media sensation
IFWTWA president & 4th generation Hawaiian born Michelle Winner
IFWTWA president & 4th generation Hawaiian born Michelle Winner
weekly Friday evening fireworks at the Hilton Hawaiian Village, Waikiki
Weekly Friday evening fireworks at the Hilton Hawaiian Village, Waikiki
IFWTWA 2013 Conference, Honolulu, HI – Sunday education sessions
IFWTWA 2013 Conference, Honolulu, HI – Sunday education sessions:
Clockwise: IFWTWA Board member and book publisher, Sherrie Wilkolaski and IFWTWA president Michelle Winner, Grame Kemlo, president IFWTWA Australasia, Native Hawaiian Hospitality Association respresentatives, Loni Rich, president Visitor Aloha Society, Manly Kanoa, Hawaiian cultural trainer, Kim Chapman (left) Alabama’s Orange Beach/Gulf Shores CVB and Jo Duncan (right) Benders Walker Group PR both associate members IFWTWA, Joe Recca, Hawaiian cultural trainer.
poke on edible spoon, Duke’s Waikiki, Honolulu
Poke on edible spoon, Duke’s Waikiki, Honolulu
Dinner at the Canoe Club Waikiki
Dinner at the Canoe Club Waikiki was sponsored by Shay Smith, (bottom center) CEO of the family owned Ocean Vodka, Maui. Robert Larsen of Sonoma County, CA, Rodney Strong Vineyards provided the wines.
Taro chips
Taro has been life sustaining since the beginning of Hawaiian time.
The Pacific coast at Punalu’u, Oahu, Hi, A Kamehameha Schools land asset.
The Pacific coast at Punalu’u, Oahu, Hi, a Kamehameha Schools land asset.
Lush green grass, the deep blue of the ocean, dry rock wall fences and plump black cattle are as much a part of Hawaiian tradition as spear fishing and canoe racing.
Nearing the Hilo Farmers Market, the scents and sights are a kaleidoscope of sensations. Food stalls, produce vendors, flower sellers, clothing, crafts, jewelry and a even a seamstress radiate out onto the surrounding sidewalks.
We were startled awake at 5:30 AM by a loud rapping on the bedroom window with shouts of “tsunami…evacuate.” Stunned, we learned that a Pacific wide warning, following Chili’s catastrophic 27 February 2010 earthquake, had been issued. Throwing our clothes into the car, not knowing if we’d see the beautiful Japanese-style beach rental house again, we decided to drive the 40 minutes up the mountain into Volcano National Park.
Stopping first for gas, my wife, Jill, went into the store next door for bottled water while I waited in line. Hawaii’s beautiful pink dawn was breaking as I observed the locals in no particular rush, certainly no panic. Jill returned with water and a 12-pack of toilet paper. “Toilet paper?” “Everyone was buying toilet paper so…” her voice trailed off. Was she in shock? Laughter convulsed us both as relief replaced fright. At least if we had to camp …
Kileuea Volcano, (bottom left) sulphur rocks & gas, (upper right) house “off the grid” (bottom right) a caldera, (center) stained glass window at Volcano National Park
Volcano National Park on the Big Island of Hawaii is home to one of Earth’s most active volcanoes – Kilauea – in an island chain born of volcanoes. We stood on an observation platform, in the middle of the devastating lava field caused by Kilauea’s most recent eruptions, with a sweeping view of the stunning coastline. Then it struck. No, not the waves, the realization we had fled to the safety of an active volcano to escape a possible tsunami.
looking for the tsunami, 27 February 2010
Nine hours later, as the evacuation order was lifted, there was audible disappointment among the other tourists – no photo ops. Fortunately, Hawaii was spared that time, but that hasn’t always been the case.
Later in the week we drove into Hilo for a day at its famous market. A substantial swath of land forms a buffer between the historic commercial center and the Pacific Ocean. It makes for attractive park land and athletic fields but that’s not the reason for its existence.
gardens and park land where Japan Town used to be, tsunami warning tower
For nearly a century before 1946 that same swath of land had been Japan Town, a warren of immigrant shanties. It lives on in Hawaii’s superb Asian fusion cuisine. Yet in a brief time frame on April Fool’s Day 1946, Japan Town and many of its residents were swept into the sea by a tsunami created by another catastrophic earthquake thousands of miles distance in Chile.
The Pacific Tsunami Museum is a short walk from the Market. Staffed mostly by volunteers – many who survived the devastating 1946 tsunami – they showed no sympathy for the tourists that lost photo ops a few days before.
As long as the carbon dioxide and sulphur gas levels from Kilauea’s simmering crater do not force its closure, Volcano National Park is open 24 hours. We drove one night to the observation area that’s closest to the caldera. There in the pitch blackness of an overcast Hawaii night, we looked in awe at the vast, blood-red glowing cauldron of Halemaumau, the eternal home of Pele, goddess of volcanoes. The fragility of paradise, Pele is indeed home, prepared to remodel the land at her pleasure.
Travel with Pen and Palate 
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