Category Archives: Travel

Dim sum and cigars: a New York experience

dim sum at 88 Palace
dim sum at 88 Palace
88 Palace
88 Palace

At a recent press lunch for journalists of the International Food, Wine & Travel Writers Association and New Jersey Press Association, Yang Chao Lu, owner of 88 Palace,  presented a veritable banquet of dim sum dishes over several hours.

Gail Gerson-Whitte & 88 Palace manager Shi Fan Lu
Gail Gerson-Whitte & 88 Palace manager Shi Fan Lu

But 88 Palace is more than a restaurant. It’s a microcosm of any Chinatown street, fun to explore and taste.  Read more at…

88 Palace serves palatial dim sum

inside The Ride
inside The Ride
The Ride
The Ride

Sitting stadium style looking out an entire glass walled side and half the ceiling of the specially outfitted bus, The Ride talks, in a deep resonating voice, not just to its customers but to people on the street as well.

The Ride, Chrysler Building ornament
The Ride, Chrysler Building ornament

The Ride deftly weaves Manhattan to give the audience a sense of the city’s energy and comedy.  Read more at…

Celebrating Manhattan on The Ride

Mike's Deli, David Greco
Mike’s Deli, David Greco
dried tomatoes at Arthur Avenue Market
dried tomatoes at Arthur Avenue Market

“I’m the mozzarella man,” says David Greco,  and there’s a cigar man, cannoli women,  a microbrewer and six other purveyors at the venerable Arthur Avenue Market in the Bronx.

Mario's owner chef Joseph Migliuccis
Mario’s owner chef Joseph Migliuccis

New York still has neighborhoods such as Belmont in the Bronx and streets like Arthur Avenue that are pockets of an almost forgotten urban reality.  Read more at…

The mozzarella man is in the Bronx

…and while you’re at it, have a cigar.

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Hotel Rafayel: new London on the Thames

Banyan on the Thames restaurant, Hotel Rafayel, London
Banyan on the Thames restaurant, Hotel Rafayel, London

The Hotel Rafayel is part of the remarkable 21st century transformation of the Docklands, the East End and South London from post industrial wasteland into the vibrant, upscale, multi-ethnic residential and commercial city London’s east side of the Thames  has become.

Lobby of the Rafayel on the Left Bank, Falcon Wharf, London, UK
Lobby of the Rafayel on the Left Bank, Falcon Wharf, London, UK

Hotel Rafayel on the Left Bank has garnered praise for its attention to environmental details. From components for the actual building’s construction to its water catchment system, its eco-conscisousness only adds to its 21st century 5-Star charm.

The Hotel Rafayel on the Left Bank: sustainable luxury on the Thames

Banyan on the Thames restaurant, Hotel Rafayel, London, UK
Banyan on the Thames restaurant, Hotel Rafayel, London, UK

Rapid urban change has remodeled the river scape along the Thames recreating the bustle of a modern port of international commerce. Except now the product is more than likely to be transported by computer or jet than freighter.

The ArcelorMittal Orbit, Queen Elizabeth Olympic Park Olympic Park, London, UK (scheduled to open 04/2014 )
The ArcelorMittal Orbit, Queen Elizabeth Olympic Park Olympic Park, London, UK (scheduled to open 04/2014 )

With a city as cosmopolitan as London, there could only be more articles appearing shortly on Travel with Pen and Palate.

London from the observation deck of the ArcelorMittal Orbit, London, UK
London from the observation deck of the ArcelorMittal Orbit, London, UK

The Tate Modern Gallery is housed in a converted art deco power plant within walking distance along the Thames River walk  just up from the Globe Theater. The clean lines of the sprawling space gives justice to both the subjects and size of many great and imaginative works.  A voiceless short documentary from the Tate is an urban ballet.

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Boise, Idaho, Top Ten

Most state capitals were chosen for political reasons, frequently condemning them to regions of inconsequential and dubious economic value other than politics.
The candy bra at The Chocolate Bar, 805 W. Bannock, Boise, ID
The candy bra at The Chocolate Bar, 805 W. Bannock, Boise, ID
But in Boise, Idaho, an entrepreneurial spirit is resulting in unique pockets of cultural activity.

Boise, Idaho, is not your average state capital

 

Freak Alley
Freak Alley

Brewers Nuts at City Peanut Shop
Brewers Nuts at City Peanut Shop

cafes in downtown
cafes in downtown

Lava Lake Lamb
Lava Lake Lamb

Bedroom in the rooming house: Basque Cultural Center
Bedroom in the rooming house: Basque Cultural Center
Come visit my Boise top ten.

Boise, Idaho, is not your average state capital

The 25-mile Greenbelt along the Boise River in the Idaho capital is a haven for recreation, sustainable river ecology and a pollution free bike and pedestrian path connecting downtown with Boise State University as well as numerous hotels and cafes. This video highlights a spillway popular with surfers and kayakers. Video credit: Marc d’Entremont (travel with pen and palate)

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The Egyptian Theater
The Egyptian Theater

Idaho is more than the land of potatoes

Dinner at Sawtooth Winery, Nampa, ID – Zee Catering
Dinner at Sawtooth Winery, Nampa, ID – Zee Catering

The potato may still reign as Idaho’s number one production crop but in the agriculture section of the Twin Falls Sunday Times-News is a long list of local farmers selling everything from grass fed Tibetan yak to heirloom Anasazi® beans.

Idaho agriculture grows beyond the potato

Salad of baby vegetables & foraged greens – Zee Catering at Sawtooth Winery
Salad of baby vegetables & foraged greens – Zee Catering at Sawtooth Winery

Sun Valley and adjacent Ketchum are by far Idaho’s wealthiest communities, yet that does not mean the offerings at the Sun Valley Harvest Festival are esoteric. From the many exhibitors this journalist learned that quinoa is a complete protein. Salting a sauté pan before frying vegetables prevents sticking. Hemp seeds are high in fiber, low in carbs and packed with iron.

Sun Valley Harvest Festival was a cornucopia of food surprises

Kelley of Manitoba Harvest's Hemp Hearts – raw shelled hemp seeds
Kelley of Manitoba Harvest’s Hemp Hearts – raw shelled hemp seeds

Out in the cooking tents a number of chefs demonstrated a range of foods. Award winning vegetarian chefs to A-list celebrities Tal Ronnen and Scot Jones of West Hollywood’s Crossroads restaurant presented a twist on traditional caponata as an entrée served on black quinoa and toasted buckwheat.

For the complete recipe…

Chef Ronnen and Jones eggplant caponata over buckwheat and black quinoa

Chef Ronnen and Jones eggplant caponata over buckwheat and black quinoa
Chef Ronnen and Jones eggplant caponata over buckwheat and black quinoa

Even unique music was featured on the last day. Spike Coggins, primitive musician, enthralled guests with unique and original compositions accompanied by the banjo, harmonica and percussion instruments ranging from chains, spurs and metal cleated boots tapping out the rhythm on old railroad spikes.

Spike Coggins, primitive musician
Spike Coggins, primitive musician

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An Idaho harvest moon
An Idaho harvest moon

The Hotel Nikopolis and Da Vinci provides luxury on the Spice Route

The clear blue water in the immense Hotel Nikopolis pool mirrors the crystal sea of Thessaloniki’s vast harbor.

Hotel Nikopolis, Thessaloniki, Greece
Hotel Nikopolis, Thessaloniki, Greece

The strikingly modern Hotel Nikopolis, built in 1999, is reminiscent in its clean lines of the marble and limestone structures of Greek antiquity.

photo courtesy of the Hotel Nikopolis, Thessaloniki, Greece
photo courtesy of the Hotel Nikopolis, Thessaloniki, Greece

Chef Stefanos Stamidis commands the hotel’s handsome Da Vinci dining room. Its Italian name is no conceit.

Veal ribs were glazed in deep, rich balsamic vinegar on a bed of baby carrots
Veal ribs were glazed in deep, rich balsamic vinegar on a bed of baby carrots

Historically located at the crossroads of empires, the city has sat at the intersection of the fabled spice route connecting the ancient worlds of the Mediterranean, Near East and the Orient.

The Hotel Nikopolis and Da Vinci: luxury on the Spice Route

Thessaloniki: modern, Roman, Byzantine & Ottoman
Thessaloniki: modern, Roman, Byzantine & Ottoman

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In the heart of Alexander’s empire

Founded in 315 B.C.E. by King Cassander of Macedon, he wisely named the city after his wife, Thessalonike, sister to Alexander the Great. Thessaloniki, as a major port city with nearly 2,500 years of history has been at the crossroads of empires starting with Alexander the Great, followed by Rome, Byzantium and the Ottomans.

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For a city bulging with a young educated population – 15% are university students.

Thessaloniki is always pregnant with culture

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Located at the intersection of the fabled spice route between Asia and Europe has had a profound effect on both the culture and cuisine of Thessaloniki. And its young population has made it a city of cafes.

Oval café creates friendships in Thessaloniki

Fava with squid and raisins from Thessaloniki’s Oval café
Fava with squid and raisins from Thessaloniki’s Oval café

Fava beans with squid and raisins is a favorite among Oval cafe patrons and reflects a reality that the ingredients for Greek cuisine remain easily sourced from their home provinces. Follow my step-by-step recipe with photos and recreate this delicious dish.

Fava with squid and raisins

The Oval cafe
The Oval cafe

You can read all my articles on Examiner.com at:

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A 15th century Ottoman public bath house
A 15th century Ottoman public bath house

 

A 19th century princess revives Hawai’i agriculture

Not unlike the deep respect for nature ingrained in Native American cultures, Hawaiians saw themselves as simply caretakers. ‘He ali’I no ka ‘aina, he hauva wale he kanaka’ – the land is chief; the human is but a servant.

Princess Bernice Pauahi Bishop (1831-1884) (right) & Charles Bishop (1822 - 1915) (left)
Princess Bernice Pauahi Bishop (1831-1884) (right) & Charles Bishop (1822 – 1915) (left)

The Kamehameha Schools have committed their vast resources to maintaining this statement as a 21st century reality.

The Kamehameha Schools revive the Hawaiian ahupua’a system

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High above what passes for tourist glitz on the Kona coast of the island of Hawai’i, the town of Hohualoa sits in early 20th century calm.

Overlooking the Kona coast
Overlooking the Kona coast

Holuakoa Gardens and Café is set within lush gardens complete with a meandering koi pond, yet their story of is more than a small café morphing into a successful restaurant; it’s an integral component in the revival of the Hawaiian ahupua’a system.

Holuakoa Gardens and Café personifies Hawaiian respect for the ‘aina

DSC09504

You can read all my articles on Examiner.com at:

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International Travel Examiner

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and

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“In Greece, food is an excuse to meet friends,” says Nikita Patiniotis

“In Greece, food is an excuse to meet friends,” says Nikita Patiniotis

Taverna To Kati Allo, Athens
Taverna To Kati Allo, Athens

With half the national population, Athens is Greek cuisine in microcosm. Nikita weaves his Athens market tour through the narrow streets of Monastiraki to taste Greece, and during several hours Context Travel’s Beyond Feta Athens food tour introduces travelers to many future new friends.

Varvakios Agora, the Athens Central Market
Varvakios Agora, the Athens Central Market

Nikita Patiniotis defines Athenian cuisine for Context Travel, Part One

herb & plant car in Athens
herb & plant car in Athens

We’ll wander through bustling Athinas Street into the vast Varvakios Agora and understand why Greece is still the ancient center of the culinary world. Context Travel’s Beyond Feta walking tour illuminates a civilization. Come walk with me.

Feta Cheese
Feta Cheese

Context Travel wanders markets Lord Byron knew, Part Two

I discover a 150-year-old wine shop in the basement of an aging building which attracts presidents, Hollywood moguls and Athenian business elite.

In part three Context Travel illuminates the Greek way of life

Demitri Koliolios (left) 4th generation owner Dyporto Wine Shop, Athens
Demitri Koliolios (left) 4th generation owner Dyporto Wine Shop, Athens

The pleasant evening temperature, the lack of car horns and loud music coupled with the sounds of conversation and relaxed dining, Greek national pastimes, create a culture in contrast to the 21st century’s frenetic pace.

Grilled Sea Bream, To Kati Allo, Athens
Grilled Sea Bream, To Kati Allo, Athens

This is not tradition triumphing over the modern era; it is the modern era.

Love at first bite at Athens’ To Kati Allo

Orange spoon sweet
Orange spoon sweet

More than one spoonful of this sweet at a time would most likely make your teeth ache. But if the quality of the spoon sweet was deemed worthy, the bride could take a deep sigh of relief.

Spoon sweets were a test for Greek brides

Greek coffee
Greek coffee

Along with a natural Mediterranean diet, enjoying rich Greek Coffee may hold a key to Greek longevity – average life expectancy is 81.

Greek coffee at Flegra Palace Hotel can promote longevity

Athens will introduce the visitor to a life that’s beyond the microwave and the modern world’s overly scheduled itinerary. If you give in to the experience, you just may change your own way of life.

Ruins of the ancient Roman Agora looking out onto markets in modern Athens
Ruins of the ancient Roman Agora looking out onto markets in modern Athens

You can read all my articles on Examiner.com at:

Culinary Travel Examiner

 International Dining Examiner

International Travel Examiner

Philadelphia Fine Dining Examiner

and

 Food & Recipes Examiner

 

Tragedy and Triumph: Antique Carousels in Seaside Heights and the Fete Paradiso

The Denzell/Looff caousel destroyed by fire in Seaside Heights, NJ September 11, 2013
The 1910 Dentzel/Looff carousel
Denzell/Looff carousel's Wurlitzer organ, destroyed in the Seaside Heights, NJ fire September 12, 2013
Dentzel/Looff carousel’s Wurlitzer organ

My wife and I were elated when we spied the Carousel Arcade on the Seaside Heights, New Jersey, boardwalk this past Monday, 9 September 2013. Having ridden and admired its magnificent century old Dentzel/Looff hand carved carousel with its powerful Wurlitzer organ, we were unsure it survived Superstorm Sandy. Fortunately it had, and although the arcade was closed on this post-Labor Day Monday, we peered through the window and wished we had come down earlier in the summer.

The Denzell/Looff carousel Seaside Heights, NJ, as seen 3 days before the September 12, 2013 fire.
The Dentzell/Looff carousel Seaside Heights, NJ, as seen 3 days before the September 12, 2013 fire.
Repairs being made to Seaside Heights boardwalk on September 9, 2013
Repairs being made to Seaside Heights boardwalk on September 9, 2013

We were pleased the boardwalk, one of only a few remaining early 20th century examples of pre-digital mass entertainment, was being restored. Many small cottages that once were the summer homes to working and middle class families – along what have increasingly become beach communities for the wealthy ­–­ had not survived. Yet repair and restoration efforts were ongoing and there was hope that the character of this town, made infamous by MTV’s Jersey Shore, would survive both Snookie and Sandy.

1910 Dentzel-Looff carousel, Seaside Heights, NJ

Tragically, a mere three days later on Thursday, we listened in horror to the reports as most of the historic boardwalk went up in flames. The loss to the community is devastating. Yet miraculously the carousel with its intricately hand carved and decorated animals and the Wurlitzer player organ survived! The fire was suppressed just yards from its pavilion.

Lower Manhattan as seen from Governors Island, NY
Lower Manhattan as seen from Governors Island, NY

Ironically, we had just spent the previous day at the Fete Paradiso on New York’s Governors Island. On a pleasant sunny day in this military base turned park in the middle of New York harbor, we marveled along with hundreds of children, and other adults behaving like children, over more than a dozen restored late 19th and early 20th century French carnival rides and games. These treasures are part of the personal collection of Frenchmen Francis Staub and Regis Masclet, and the installation on Governors Island is their first venture to make a traveling living museum of what entertainment used to be.

Flying swings, early 20th century, at Fete Peradiso
Flying swings, early 20th century, at Fete Peradiso

The Vélocipèdes is the centerpiece of the collection. One of only two remaining, this 19th-century French carousel ran on pedal power. It was created in Paris to encourage the use of bicycles as a cleaner mode of personal urban transportation than horses. Although it’s pedal power that starts the carousel, they drive a motor invented by Nikola Tesla that adds surprising speed to the ride. The other Velocipedes is in a Paris museum and was featured in Woody Allen’s film Midnight in Paris.

Singer at Fete Paradiso
Singer at Fete Paradiso

Other features include flying swings, a children’s carousel, a mechanical ball toss game of life-size caricatures of celebrities such as Charlie Chaplin and Josephine Baker and a magnificent mechanical pipe organ. Fete Paradiso recreates the feel of a summer carnival with entertainers from fire-eaters and sword swallowers to musicians crooning French love songs and an outdoor café created by New York’s bistro Le Gamin.  For an afternoon the Fete Paradiso reminded me that people will restore and revel in a past that can still become the future.

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Coffee and chocolate and Hawaii and a recipe

Kona coffee crème with salted chocolate caramel macadamia nut sauce
Kona coffee crème with salted chocolate caramel macadamia nut sauce

A recent press trip to the big island of Hawaii inspired me to devise a recipe for

Kona coffee crème with salted chocolate caramel macadamia nut sauce.

With the active encouragement of the Hawaii Regional Cuisine movement and the considerable resources of the Kamehameha School agricultural land use initiative, the future for serious small farmers has rarely been brighter in the islands. With over 300 independent farms growing Kona Coffee and several dozen growing cocoa beans, the future for these Hawaii agricultural products is robust.

cocoa pods at Original Hawaiian Chocolate, Kona, Hi
cocoa pods at Original Hawaiian Chocolate, Kona, Hi

The Kona Coffee Belt, panoramic Hawaii Route 180, hugs the Kona coast. Several dozen farms, including UCC-Hawaii Kona Coffee Estate and Original Hawaiian Chocolate offer tours and tastings. It’s no surprise that coffee and chocolate pair well together, but their Hawaiian story is just as interesting.

Immigrant fruits, a tale of Hawaii grown coffee and chocolate

the Kona coast from UCC-Hawaii Kona Coffee Estate, Kona, Hi
the Kona coast from UCC-Hawaii Kona Coffee Estate, Kona, Hi

 

You can read all my articles on Examiner.com at:

Culinary Travel Examiner

 International Dining Examiner

International Travel Examiner

Philadelphia Fine Dining Examiner

and

 Food & Recipes Examiner